What is tretinoin and is it worth the hype?

Gesi Lloyd

Tretinoin is a prescription-strength topical retinoid derived from vitamin A, and it works by speeding up skin cell turnover to shed dead skin and support new cell growth. It is currently one of skincare’s most talked about ingredients, with more than 38,100 posts on TikTok discussing its benefits, but dermatologists say its strength makes it a poor fit for some skin types without professional guidance.

What does tretinoin actually do for skin?

According to dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry, tretinoin is effective for treating acne, softening fine lines and wrinkles, improving overall skin texture and evening out pigmentation. It also stimulates collagen production, which helps maintain skin elasticity over time. As the most potent topical retinoid available, it produces more dramatic results than over-the-counter alternatives, though that same strength is what makes it more likely to cause irritation.

How does tretinoin compare to other retinoids?

Retinoids exist on a spectrum of strength, according to dermatologist Dr. Adil Sheraz. Tretinoin, also known as retinoic acid, sits at the top as the strongest and most effective form, and it requires a prescription. Retinaldehyde, sold over the counter, is less potent but stronger than retinol. Retinol itself is weaker still, since skin must convert it through multiple steps before it becomes active. Retinyl palmitate ranks as the mildest form and appears most often in over-the-counter products aimed at sensitive skin.

Who is a good candidate for tretinoin?

Dr. Henry prescribes it to a wide range of patients, including those dealing with adult onset acne and others focused primarily on signs of aging rather than breakouts. Not everyone needs the same routine around it. Some patients only need tretinoin paired with a moisturizer, while others benefit from a…



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