The Skincare Ingredients I Always Look For And The Ones I Avoid

After years of reading labels, some ingredients have earned a permanent place on my shelf and others have earned a permanent place on my avoid list. Here’s where I stand.

The ones I always look for

My most consistent skincare ingredient and for good reason. It addresses oil control, pore appearance, uneven skin tone, and post-blemish marks all at once. It layers well with almost everything else, rarely causes irritation, and works quietly in the background without drama. If a product has niacinamide in a meaningful concentration, it already has my attention.

For exfoliation and texture, glycolic acid is my go-to. It works on the surface of the skin to smooth, brighten, and clear the buildup that makes skin look dull. I use it a few nights a week and the difference when I skip it is noticeable. The key is not overdoing it. Consistency at a moderate frequency beats daily use every time.

Often overlooked but genuinely useful for acne-prone skin. Zinc helps regulate oil production and has anti-inflammatory properties that support clearer skin over time. I look for it paired with niacinamide, which is exactly why The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% stays on my shelf.

Not for everyone, but for combination and acne-prone skin it does something most other ingredients don’t. It actually targets the bacteria that cause breakouts rather than just soothing the surface. Worth having in your routine if breakouts are a consistent concern.

The ones I avoid

One of the most common hidden irritants in skincare. A product can be marketed as gentle and still contain fragrance that triggers redness, sensitivity, or breakouts…especially on melanin-rich skin where inflammation tends to leave lasting marks. If I see parfum or fragrance high up on an ingredient list, I put…