Reverse Styling: A Look At The Shrinkage-Fighting Hair Technique

As a natural with 4B/4C hair, I have a love-hate relationship with my mane. Since shrinkage plays absolutely no games, I’ve never opted for a wash-n-go look out of fear of sporting short, lifeless hair. Instead, I’ve grown quite fond of flexi-rod and perm rod sets styled on dried, then mousse-applied hair. However, I’ve always yearned to let my kinks and coils do their thing. And since reverse styling has grown in popularity, it’s given me hope that I can rock the look with confidence.

What is reverse styling?

In case you’ve been out of the loop, reverse styling is a pretty simple concept. “It’s exactly what it sounds like: you flip the traditional wash-day order,” says Crystal Mallett-Williams, hairstylist, salon owner, and RevAir’s Resident. “Instead of applying your products, drying, and then stretching the hair, you dry and stretch the hair first, then style it.”

Unlike traditional wash-n-go routines, where products are typically applied before stretching or drying, reverse styling prioritizes length and shape first. By stretching the hair before adding styling products, naturals can create a more elongated foundation while still making definition and volume a top priority.

Ever since reverse styling hit TikTok, the natural hair community has been smitten. The technique has sparked curiosity, especially among those looking for ways to combat shrinkage without excessive manipulation. According to Crystal, one of the biggest benefits is that “the stretch is already built in.”